Method of making shoes



July 8 1924.

A. H. PRENZEL METHOD oF MAKING SHOES Filed March 9, 1920` s sheets-sheer 2 I@ UQHMEYS A.H. PRENZEL A METHOD oF MAKING ysxioEs July s m4,-

Filed march 9 Patented July 8, 1924.

4unirte srATEs METHOD F MAKING SHOES.

Application led March 9, 1920. Serial No. 364,382.

To all whom t may cncerni i Be it known that I, ADAM H. PnnNznL, a Vcitizen of the United States, and a resident of Halifax, inthe county ofDauphin and State' of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Making Shoes, of which the following is a specification.-

My. invention relates toimprovements in methods of making shoes, reference being had to my eo-pending application for patent on shoes and method of making under-wedge shoes, filed Sept. 16, 1919,'Serial No. 824,149, i and it consists in the constructions and the hereinafter enumerated vsteps of the method.

One of the foremost objects of the invention resides in the employment of the herein described improved method, by means of which a. very substantial shoe is made, the method being employed more particularly in manufacturing childrens shoes.

A further object of the invention is to carry out the herein described method of which several of the important steps consist in separately Isewing an insole and outsole onto the. upper leather and lining of the shoe, thus securing .a doubly sure attach- .v ment of the shoe upper.l

Other objects and advantages will appear inthe following specification,y reference being hadto the accompanying drawings, in wliichz- 4;' y gure 1 is a plan view of an insole which is out out inthe shape shown in the first step of themethod, y A

Figure 2 is a perspective view illustrating t-lie second step; of the method, wherein the t, cut sole is placed in a mold, i y,

Figure 3 is a longitudinal sectional view showing how the insole is folded with an upstanding peripheral flange vin carrying out the second step of the'method,

i t soleafter" it comes ffoln the mold,

' ripheral flange4 ofthe insole.

stead of staples, as in Figure 5',

Figure 7 visV agperspectivefview illustrating Figuiiel is a detail perspective view of the i t an insole, slip sole and out sole,'tlie insole Figure 5 is a perspective `view illustra-ting'. the third, step" o f the method wherein the l upper; l-eatlier 'and lining of a shoe are tem` porarily vaffixedat 4desired places to the pe- Figure 6 a detail perspectivev view illus? tratingfthe use of tacks as the affixtures in` upper leather and lining is primarily stitchedto the insole at the base of the peripheral flange,

Figure 8 is a perspective view illustra-ting the fifth step of the' method wherein the temporary afxtures are removed, the flange of the insole straightened out and a coating of cement is applied,

- ff; Figure 9 isa perspective view illustrating an outsole with an affixed spring heel wedge all coated with cement, which sole is applied to the insole in Figure 8 in the siXth step of the method,

, Figure 10 is a perspective view illustrating the seventh step of the method wherein a secondary row of stitching secures the out sole, insole, lining and upper leather of the shoe,

line 11-11 of Figure 10, illustrating the ap pearance and location of the two rows of stitching,

Figure 11 is a detail sectional view on the Figure 12 is a detail sectional View illusti'ating a slight modification, specifically described below, and t Figure 13 is a detail perspective view illustrating. the use of a welt strip to `conceal the exposed rows of stitching in Figure 10 and give the shoe a more nished appearance.

In order that the reader may obtain a clear understanding of the method of making slices as now proposed, but before describing the varioussteps, a brief introduction of one of the main purposes of the invention may be of advantage. The sole 1 isthe foundation on which the whole shoe is vbuilt and on Vwhich the novelty of the process rests.

It 'is known in the art as slip sole, that i is to say, fit'is a sole of that kind usually usedV in1 welt or McKay shoes to increase the weight of the sole. In such shoes there is naturally corning Anext to the foot. In such construction, the upper 1s fastened to the insole, leaving an edge on .the inside which becomes very uncomfortable when the upper` spreadsffrom tlie' iiisole by the wearing of foldedwitli afperiplieral flange, thus turn-` ing it into the shape of an insole, then i' fiattening the flange out, turning the sole back into the original slip sole but giving an extension edge which the ordinary'insole cannot give. Consider now the steps of the process.

Step No. l

consists of cutting out an insole 1 according to the particular size of shoe in the course of manufacture. The sole is cut out or stamped by any o-f the approved means now in common use. The dotted line 2 in Figure 1 approximately designates the place along which an upstanding fiange is formed according to step No. 2.

Step N o. 2

consists of molding a peripheral fiange 3 around the edge of the insole 1, as just stated above. This is done by placing the sole 1 on a mold block 4 with an opening 5 of the same Ashape as the sole 1 but small enough for the purpose of enabling the formation of the flange 3 when the complementary molding plunger 6 is presented as in y Figure 3.

In order to enable the molding of the flange 3 it is necessary to first soak the sole 1 in water so as to render it sufficiently soft that it may be operated on. The sole should VStep No. 3

consistsl of temporarily aflixiiig the upper leather 7 and canvas lining 8 of a shoe to the peripheral flange 3, by means of staples 9. These staples are pressed through near the edge. of the flange and are placed-wherever desired.

The yillustration in Figure 5 shows the staples 9 as being introduced only at the tip of tlie'shoe, the upper leather being drawn tightly around the flange in this case, only requires the affiXtures at Vthe points indicated. A counter` 10 is inserted at the heel betweenthe upper leather 7 and` lining 8. A woodenlast is also inserted on the inside ofthe shoe to facilitate Vthecarrying ou-t ofthe method from this step on. 'The last is not indicated in the drawingbut Figure 5 shows a number o f tacks, 11 by means of which the insole lis temporarily` secured to the last. Itis desired to pointoutjthat -insteadgof employing staples 9 as the temporary affixing means between the flange 3 and shoe upper leather and lining,

tacks 12 may be employed` as in Figure 6.

These are driven through and the points are clinched on the inside.

Step No'. 4

reciprocates in a curved path, entering holes from the outside of the shoe to the inside of the fiange 3, previously made for the purpose by a perforating awlv which is a part of the machine. This'machine also includes a guide finger which cooperates with the awl and needle in providing a support and advancing the shoe step bystep so as to accommodate or cooperate with the stitching mechanism. This guide finger works on the inside of the flange 3 at the base yof the sole 1, and moves around in the corner between the flange and pawl, which acts as a guide therefor. c Y j Were it not for the provision-of the flan e 3, thispart-icular method of sewing cou d not be carried out', because it would be absolutely impossible to produce the stitching 13 by means of the curved needle described.

Furthermore, it has been found by experience that the stitching operation, that is to say, the primaryV stitching operation, can not be carried out by a straight needle, because were'this attempted, it wouldniean that the stitching would have to be introduced without turning up the flange 3 and in such case, it could never beI gottenfin as closely as illustrated in Figure 1`1`. In other words, the row of stitching 1.3 is inset, the adjacent upper part extending-over the stitching and in a measure affording it' protection. lIt is also to be observed that the inner row 13 doesnot come in contact with theground. Y M

Step No.5 a Y consists of removing 'the .temporary afiixing means 9, straightening out the fiaiigev 3, as illustrated in Figure 8, and applying a coating ofv cement, as vindicated bythe shading.

Vemploying an arcuate needle. VTl'i'is needle Y When thus straightened out, theV insole 1f isl perfectly flat andfvsogobviates vthe use of a filler as is customary andnecessaryinthe Vmanufacture of certain 'shoes fin which in sion is'left on the inside of thejstitching.

It is to be observed in Figure S'th'at Ythe upper leatherA and` lining l of the Vshoe are tui-ned with the flange 3. That is 'to say,

the course of manufacture, a slightdepresl when the flange 3 is straightened out, the

attached upper leather and lining are turned out as illustrated in the upper part of Figure 11. Step No. 6'

consists in applying the outsole 141 in Figure 9. This sole has a spring heel wedge 15 tacked thereto at 16, and a coating of cement is applied as indicated by the shading. The shoe is now ready for the performance of Step No. 7

which consists of secondarily stitching the outsole 14, insole 1, lining 8 and upper leather 7 together. This secondary and final row of stitching 17 also goes through the wedge 15 and counter 10 at the heel. The resultant shoe in Figure 10 is very substantial, the double row of stitching adding greatly to the security of the out and insole. The outwardly turned parts of the shoe upper obviate the use of welting around the edge, that is to say, such welting is not necessarily applied unless desired. But Figure 13 illustrates the application of welting 18 which is affixed by a third row of stitching 19.

The welt strip 18 is suppliedas an article of manufacture and simply requires to be stitched-on in case it be desired to conceal the two rows of stitching 13, 17. The row of stitching 19 is inserted by a curved needle, a straight needle being used to insert the row of stitching 17 which is farther away from the body of the shoe.

The modcaton in Figure 1Q adapts a part of the foregoing method o-f making childrens shoes, to making shoes for adults. Here it is to be observed that the insole 1 is employed, the flange 3 being turned down as before. The primary row of stitching 13 secures the upper leather 7 and lining 8 tothe flange.

But instead of extending the flange around the heel, that portion thereof is eut off as indicated at 20. Consequently, the back of the shoe is not capable of being sewn in place and therefore tacks 21, or equivalent means, are employed to secure the in-turned portion generally designated 22, to the insole 1. A molded counter 23 is used in this shoe. This counter includes the molded flange 24 through which the tacks 21 pass as indicated.

A high heel 25 is suitably secured to the flat place on the insole l behind the cutaway ortion 20. Types of heels other than that ilustrated in dotted lines in Figure 12, may be applied to the place provided on the insole by cutting away the heel portion of the flange 3. The remainder of the method beginning at Step No. 5 is to be` carried out in connection with the form in Figure 12, that is to say, the flange 3 is turned out flat and an outsole is applied by means of the secondary row of stitching 17, as fully described above.

I claim 1. The method of making shoes, consisting of cutting a sole, and moistening it to make it pliable; molding the sole to produce a peripheral upstanding flange and provide a guide, sewing a shoe upper leather and lining close to the base of the flange, straightening out the flange to form a Hat surface, and applying a `coating of cement thereto; applying a cement-coated outsole, and running a second row of stitching nearer the edge of the shoe sole, through both soles, the upper leather and lining.

2. Thevmethod of making shoes, comprising cutting a slip sole, and moistening it to render it pliable; molding said slip Ysole to produce an upstanding peripheral flange, temporarily affixing a shoe upper structure drawn over the flange, primarily stitching the upper structure to the flange close to the base, straightening the flange to form a fiat slip sole surface, and applying a cement coating thereto, said sewn upper structure being turned with the flange; applying a cement-coated outsole with an attached spring heel wedge, and applying a secondary outer 4row of stitches through both soles, wedge, lining and upper leather.

3. The method of making shoes, comprising cutting an insole, and inoistening it to render it pliable; molding said sole to produce an upstanding peripheral flange, temporarily affiXing a shoe upper leather and lining drawn over the flange, primarily stitching the upper leather and lining to the flange close to the base, straightening the flange to form a flat insole surface, and applying a cement coating thereto, said sewn upper leather and lining being turned with the flange; applying a cement-coated outsole with an attached spring heel wedge, applying a secondary outer row of stitches through both soles, wedge, lining and upper leather, and covering both rows of stitches by a welt strip which is sewn in place.

4. The method of making shoes, including taking an insole having a peripheral upstanding flange, drawing a shoe upper leather and ,lining over the flange until it substantially meets the edge, temporarily securing the two, and running a primary row of stitching through the flange, lining and upper leather close to the base, and in the plane of the sole with a curved needle.

5. The method of making shoes, including molding a peripheral flange on an insole by turning the edge at right angles, drawing the upper leather and lining of a shoe over the flange until it substantially meets the edge, running a primary row of stitching around the base of the flange through the lining and upper leather in the plane of the sole with a curved needle, said flange then serving as a guide for the associated guide finger of said needle; and turningV the flange so as to provide a flat insole surface, which then has a row of stitches spaced in from the edge. 6. The method of making shoes,.including taking an insole with a peripheral flange lturned at right angles thereto, drawing thereover a shoe upper leather, lining with a counter inserted between the lining and upper leather at the heel; running a primary row of stitching close to the base of the flange, through the lining, counter and upper leather, with a curved needle which inserts tlie'stitches in the plane'of the sole, the flange acting as a guide forthe associated guide finger of the needle; turning the flange straight with the insole, at which timey the corresponding portions of the upper leather, lining and counter are turned outwardly; suitably applying an outsole with an affixed spring' heel wedge, and running a secondary row of stitching through both soles, wedge, counter, lining and upper leather with a straight needle.

7. The method of' making shoes, including taking an insole with a peripheral flange turned at right angles thereto, drawing thereover a shoe upper leather, lining` with a counter inserted between the lining and upper leather at the heel; running a primary row of stitching close to the base of the flange, through the lining, counter and upper leather, with av curved needle which inserts the stitches in the plane of the sole, the flangev acting as a guide for the associated guide finger of the needle turning the flange straight with theV insole,fat

which time the `-corresp`onding portions of leather, lining and-interposed counter over'Y said flange until they meet the edge, suitably temporarily aliixing theupper leather and lining to said flange at desired places, running a row Vof stitching around the base of the flangerthrough the lining,'counter and upperleather, with a curved needle so thatV the stitches are in the plane of the sole;

turning the flange flat with the sole, at which time the upperleather, liningan'd counter are also turned, suitably' applying an outsole with a secured spring,` heel wedge, the primary row of stitches stopping at the joint between said soles;` and running a secondary row of stitching through bothV soles, wedge, counter, lining and upper leather with a straight needle near the' periphery. v Y* Y Y ADAM'YH.- PRENZEL, 

